Tarantula Feeding Guide: Diet, Schedule, And Tips

Hey there, tarantula enthusiasts! So, you've got a fuzzy, eight-legged friend and you're wondering how to keep it happy and healthy, right? Well, one of the most important parts of tarantula care is feeding. But don't worry, it's not as scary as it might seem! This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about feeding your tarantula, from choosing the right food to setting up a feeding schedule. Let's dive in!

Understanding Your Tarantula's Dietary Needs

First things first, let's get to know our little predators a bit better. Tarantulas are carnivores, meaning they primarily eat insects. However, their diet in the wild can be quite varied, depending on their size and the availability of prey. When we keep them as pets, we need to mimic this natural diet as closely as possible to ensure they get all the nutrients they need.

Size Matters: The size of your tarantula is the biggest factor in determining what and how much to feed it. Spiderlings (baby tarantulas) need smaller prey items than adults. Think of it this way: a tiny spiderling can't take down a huge cricket! For spiderlings, flightless fruit flies, pinhead crickets, and small mealworms are excellent choices. As they grow, you can gradually increase the size of the prey. Adult tarantulas can handle larger prey like crickets, roaches, locusts, and even the occasional pinky mouse (although this should be a rare treat, not a staple). It's crucial to observe your tarantula's abdomen size; a plump abdomen indicates a well-fed spider, while a shrunken one suggests it's time for a meal.

The Nutritional Value: Just like us, tarantulas need a balanced diet. While crickets are a common and readily available food source, they shouldn't be the only thing your tarantula eats. Roaches, for example, are much more nutritious than crickets. They have a higher protein content and a better calcium-to-phosphorus ratio, which is essential for healthy molting. Mealworms and superworms are also good options, but they are high in fat, so they should be offered in moderation. Varying the diet ensures your tarantula gets a wide range of nutrients, promoting overall health and vitality. Think of it like this: you wouldn't want to eat the same thing every day, and neither does your tarantula! Providing a diverse diet helps prevent nutritional deficiencies and keeps your tarantula interested in its food.

Frequency of Feeding: How often you feed your tarantula depends on its size, age, and species. Spiderlings need to be fed more frequently than adults because they are growing rapidly. You might feed a spiderling every other day or every few days. Juvenile tarantulas can be fed once or twice a week, while adults can often go much longer between feedings. A mature adult tarantula might only need to eat once every two to three weeks, or even longer! The best way to determine your tarantula's feeding schedule is to observe its behavior and abdomen size. If its abdomen is plump and round, it's likely not hungry. If it's shrunken or if the tarantula is actively hunting, it's time to offer a meal. Remember, it's better to underfeed than overfeed. Overfeeding can lead to obesity and health problems, while tarantulas can go for long periods without food.

Selecting the Right Food for Your Tarantula

Okay, so now you know why a varied diet is important, but what are the best food options for your eight-legged buddy? Let's break it down:

Crickets: A Classic Choice: Crickets are a readily available and affordable option, making them a popular choice for tarantula keepers. They're easy to buy from pet stores or online, and they're a decent source of protein. However, as we discussed earlier, crickets shouldn't be the only thing on the menu. They can be a bit lacking in certain nutrients, and they can also be noisy and escape from their enclosure! If you're using crickets, make sure to gut-load them before feeding them to your tarantula. This means feeding the crickets nutritious food, like fruits and vegetables, so that they pass those nutrients on to your spider. Gut-loading enhances the nutritional value of the crickets, making them a healthier meal for your tarantula.

Roaches: A Nutritional Powerhouse: Roaches are an excellent food source for tarantulas. They are packed with protein and have a better nutritional profile than crickets. Dubia roaches, in particular, are a popular choice because they are easy to care for, don't smell, and can't climb smooth surfaces, so they're less likely to escape. Other roach species, like discoid roaches and Turkestan roaches, are also good options. Many tarantula keepers even breed their own roaches, ensuring a constant supply of high-quality food. Breeding roaches can seem daunting at first, but it's actually quite simple, and it can save you money in the long run. Plus, you'll always have fresh food on hand for your tarantula.

Mealworms and Superworms: Treat with Caution: Mealworms and superworms are convenient and readily available, but they are high in fat. While they can be a good addition to your tarantula's diet, they shouldn't be the main course. Overfeeding with mealworms or superworms can lead to obesity and other health problems. Think of them like fast food for your tarantula – a tasty treat in moderation, but not a healthy staple. If you do feed mealworms or superworms, it's a good idea to crush their heads before offering them to your tarantula. This prevents them from burrowing into the substrate and potentially bothering your spider during a molt.

Pinky Mice: An Occasional Treat: Pinky mice (newborn mice) can be offered to adult tarantulas as an occasional treat, but they should not be a regular part of their diet. Pinkies are very high in fat and calcium, and overfeeding them can lead to health problems. Think of a pinky mouse as a once-in-a-while indulgence, like a special dessert. If you do offer a pinky, make sure it is appropriately sized for your tarantula. It should be no larger than the tarantula's abdomen. It's also important to note that some tarantulas may refuse pinkies, and that's perfectly fine. If your tarantula doesn't eat the pinky within 24 hours, remove it from the enclosure to prevent it from decomposing.

Wild-Caught Insects: A Big No-No: While it might be tempting to catch insects from your backyard to feed your tarantula, this is generally not a good idea. Wild-caught insects can carry parasites or pesticides that could harm your spider. It's always best to stick to commercially raised insects to ensure the safety of your tarantula. You never know what kind of chemicals or diseases wild insects might have been exposed to, and it's not worth the risk. Your tarantula's health is paramount, so err on the side of caution and purchase insects from a reputable source.

Setting Up a Feeding Schedule

Alright, you've got the food, now let's talk about timing. Creating a consistent feeding schedule is key to keeping your tarantula healthy and happy. But how do you figure out the perfect schedule? Here's a breakdown:

Spiderlings: Frequent Feedings: As mentioned earlier, spiderlings are growing rapidly and need to eat more often than adults. A good starting point is to feed them every other day or every three days. Offer them small prey items, like flightless fruit flies or pinhead crickets. Watch their abdomens – if they look plump and round, you can extend the time between feedings. It's important to monitor spiderlings closely, as they can be more vulnerable to dehydration and starvation than adults. Make sure they always have access to fresh water, and don't let them go too long without a meal.

Juveniles: A Balanced Approach: Juvenile tarantulas can be fed once or twice a week, depending on their size and appetite. Offer them appropriately sized prey items, like medium crickets or small roaches. Again, observing their abdomen size is the best way to gauge their hunger. If they refuse a meal, don't panic! It's normal for tarantulas to go off their food, especially before a molt. Just remove the uneaten prey and try again in a few days. Consistency is key, but flexibility is also important. Adjust the feeding schedule as needed based on your tarantula's individual needs.

Adults: Less is More: Adult tarantulas don't need to eat as often as their younger counterparts. A mature adult tarantula might only need to eat once every two to three weeks, or even longer. This can vary depending on the species and individual spider. Some tarantula keepers even fast their adult tarantulas for a month or more, especially during the colder months when their metabolism slows down. When you do feed an adult, offer them a larger prey item, like a large cricket or a couple of roaches. If they refuse a meal, it's usually nothing to worry about. Just remove the uneaten prey and try again in a few weeks.

Pre-Molting: The Hunger Strike: One of the most common reasons why a tarantula will refuse food is because it's getting ready to molt. Molting is the process where a tarantula sheds its exoskeleton to grow. During this time, they often lose their appetite and become more reclusive. If your tarantula stops eating and starts exhibiting other signs of an impending molt, like a darkened abdomen or a dull appearance, don't try to force-feed it. Just make sure it has access to fresh water and leave it alone. Once it has molted, it will likely be hungry again after a few days or weeks.

The Feeding Process: Step-by-Step

Okay, you've got the food, you've got the schedule, now it's time to feed your tarantula! Here's a step-by-step guide to the feeding process:

1. Gather Your Supplies: You'll need your tarantula's enclosure, the prey item, and a pair of tongs or tweezers. Tongs are essential for safely feeding your tarantula without risking a bite. Remember, even though tarantula bites are rarely medically significant, they can still be painful, and it's best to avoid them altogether.
2. Prepare the Prey: If you're feeding crickets, it's a good idea to stun them slightly before offering them to your tarantula. This makes it easier for your spider to catch them and prevents the crickets from hiding in the substrate. You can stun a cricket by gently tapping the container it's in or by briefly placing it in the freezer. If you're feeding roaches, they usually don't need to be stunned, as they are less likely to escape. For mealworms or superworms, crush their heads to prevent them from burrowing.
3. Present the Prey: Using your tongs, carefully offer the prey item to your tarantula. You can either dangle it in front of the tarantula or place it gently on the substrate near its burrow. Be patient – some tarantulas will pounce on their prey immediately, while others will take their time. If your tarantula doesn't show interest right away, try wiggling the prey a bit to get its attention.
4. Observe the Hunt: Once your tarantula has caught its prey, give it some space to eat. It will likely retreat to its burrow or a secluded spot to enjoy its meal. Watching your tarantula hunt and eat can be fascinating, but try to avoid disturbing it during this process.
5. Remove Uneaten Prey: If your tarantula doesn't eat the prey within 24 hours, remove it from the enclosure. Uneaten prey can stress your tarantula, and crickets, in particular, can even bite your spider if left in the enclosure for too long. Leaving uneaten prey can also attract mites or other pests, so it's best to remove it promptly.

Common Feeding Problems and Solutions

Even with the best intentions, you might encounter some feeding challenges along the way. Here are a few common problems and how to solve them:

Refusal to Eat: As we've discussed, tarantulas can go off their food for a variety of reasons, including pre-molt, stress, and temperature changes. If your tarantula refuses a meal, don't panic. First, check its enclosure to make sure the temperature and humidity are within the appropriate range for its species. Make sure it has access to fresh water. If the tarantula is showing signs of an impending molt, leave it alone and try again after it has molted. If your tarantula continues to refuse food for an extended period and you're concerned, consult with a veterinarian or an experienced tarantula keeper.

Prey Escaping: Crickets are notorious escape artists, and they can be a real nuisance if they get loose in your house. To prevent escapes, store crickets in a secure container with a tight-fitting lid. You can also try using a cricket keeper, which is a specially designed container that makes it easier to catch and dispense crickets. Roaches are less likely to escape, but it's still a good idea to handle them carefully. If a cricket does escape into your tarantula's enclosure, remove it as soon as possible to prevent it from stressing your spider.

Mites: Mites are tiny parasites that can sometimes infest tarantula enclosures. They are often attracted to uneaten prey or decaying organic matter. To prevent mites, remove uneaten prey promptly and keep the enclosure clean. You can also use a substrate that is less prone to mites, like coco fiber or peat moss. If you do get a mite infestation, there are several ways to treat it, including using predatory mites or diatomaceous earth. If you're unsure how to treat a mite infestation, consult with a veterinarian or an experienced tarantula keeper.

Conclusion: Happy Feeding, Happy Tarantula!

Feeding your tarantula might seem a bit daunting at first, but with a little knowledge and patience, it can be a rewarding part of tarantula keeping. Remember to provide a varied diet, create a consistent feeding schedule, and observe your tarantula's behavior. By following these tips, you can ensure that your eight-legged friend stays happy, healthy, and well-fed. Happy feeding, guys!